C.J. Macias on Big-Wave Surfing, Physical Injury, and the Healing Power of Gratitude

As a part of our series about stars who are making an important social impact, I had the pleasure of interviewing C.J. Macias.

C.J. Macias grew up in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, spending his time surfing and dancing with the waves. When not in the water, he would take up skateboarding, soccer, and even Volleyball, which eventually bought him to compete for a National Championship playing for IPFW (Indiana-Purdue Fort Wayne) — allowing him to travel the world and compete professionally.

Everything shifted for Macias in 2011 when he got an invitation to get a real taste at life in Nazare, Portugal, where he went on to tow giant waves. Volleyball was put aside, as Macias was determined to spend the following season learning and charging the peaks of Nazare. Unfortunately, a devastating injury soon followed, stripping him of his physical prowess, which quickly came with internal anger, frustration, sadness, and depression. It was then that his true journey began.

He took this time to learn about healing himself. He learned that he had to feel the feelings of the past hurts, in order to liberate them and move forward his life. He knew there was no moving forward unless he learned to dive deep into the journey of self-discovery. From India to Bali to Hawaii, he traveled the world, reading up and learning about the powers of healing. Macias quickly discovered the powers of plant medicine and the strength of a solid state of mind. After going through a 4-day “vision quest”, with no food or water, he learned the greatest gift of all: gratitude. With newfound determination, Macias quickly put his best foot forward to live life to the fullest and help others find peace and understanding along their own journeys. He began his involvement with the “Waves of Life” project with The McNamara Foundation helping at-risk youth strengthen their connection with nature and themselves through the transformational power of surf therapy. “The McNamara Foundation is one of the coolest and most impactful things that I feel I can offer to the human family,” said Macias. They hold specialized surf sessions for children using a variety of mind/body exercises that promote positive mental health, companionship, and accomplishment. It is a safe space for them to have meaningful nature experiences that develop greater confidence and harmony with the earth and their community. Aside from being really cool, studies support this approach, and they are seeing great results in their work.

Macias’ approach to diet, fitness, and healthy lifestyle is simple: Whole Foods with life force in them, organic aligned movement in rhythm with the breath, purpose, and community, connecting everything to the core through the fascial chain and using breath as indicator and as medicine.

In the latest HBO Max six-part docu-series, “100 Foot Wave,” Macias can be seen alongside big-wave pioneer Garrett McNamara. The series examines a decade-long odyssey of catching a 100-foot wave while highlighting how McNamara’s efforts drove the sport of surfing to new heights, transforming a tiny fishing village into the world’s preeminent big-wave surfing destination. The town known for making a big splash with its waves quickly went dark on January 8, 2022, as Macias scared the world when taking one of surfing’s worst wipeouts recorded to date. After taking the hit and going missing for over five minutes, Macias miraculously survived, suffering minimal injuries. He’s not letting the waves take him down just yet; you can catch Macias in Season 2 of “100 Foot Wave” coming in 2022.

Also, in the books for 2022, he is gearing up to set up a website for his health-related offerings: workouts, meditations, gratitude, superfoods, and injury rehabilitation guidance to name a few.

Thank you so much for joining us on this interview series. Can you share the backstory that led you to this career path with us?

It starts with home, Fort Lauderdale, Florida, where I spent a lot of time in the ocean. I don’t know if it’s related, but being of Cuban descent, I have always felt a connection with the water. My dad came over at a young age and settled here, so we just treated it like we knew. My mother and father taught me how to swim, then surf, spearfish and enjoy the Earth. I eventually got into soccer and volleyball, where I realized my freakishly large hands would come into use. I played volleyball in college and made a magazine cover which was hilarious. It’s me in my uniform with a volleyball and also on a surfboard. Then I played professional indoor and beach for a bit and was surfing as well. That’s when I thought I got derailed. I suffered a back injury in 2012 that took me out of athletics completely. I had to heal. I spent a lot of time learning and working on my physical and mental strengths. Healing became my life. During that time, I was living in Hawaii with my brother-in-law Garrett who you may know is a big wave surfer. Training on the sacred land, surrounded by like-minded, ambitious limit-pushing individuals of all sorts, surfers, rock climbers, kung fu masters, even the bakers, added to that inspiration to get back out there and believe in me. Surfing was back and in a big way, but my mission was different. It’s what I feel a lot of athletes go through, that it’s not just about the physical aspect but also the emotional. Since then, it’s translated into some amazing things. I joined Garrett on his mission to surf the 100-foot wave, traveled the world learning from some of the best healers, and been able to use what I gained through injury and help others. My career has become much more than big wave surfing. That’s just where you can see the most extreme example of me practicing what I preach.

Can you share the funniest or most interesting story that occurred to you in the course of your career? What was the lesson or takeaway you took out of that story?

Well, since it’s so fresh, all that really comes to mind is my most recent experience in Nazaré dropping straight down a 60-foot wave and having the ocean beat the heck out of me all the way to shore. I remember a lot of details from the incident. Feeling the wave build, Garrett swinging me in on the jet ski, how steep it was, the speed, then the ominous feeling of a lake’s worth of water on its way down with me under it, the explosion, flying through the air, the impact, then what felt like forever attempting to swim. I could see how lucky I was to be alive and just have this one injury, but also how absolutely epic it was taking that drop. What’s funny is I skipped several swells hitting Nazaré throughout the end of last season because I didn’t feel mentally ready, and there I was laughing, crying, and singing in the back of an ambulance on the way to this hospital with a dislocated elbow. I’d call it a success.

What would you advise a young person who wants to emulate your success?

To play HARD. Go all-in on whatever the dream is. Write down the end goal, then what it will take to get there, and do it every day. Align yourself with a good community of like-minded people to support each other. Find good teachers and LISTEN to them with an open mind. Breathe through your nose and meditate. Seriously, breathe through your nose.

Is there a person that made a profound impact on your life? Can you share a story?

Roray Kam was my idol growing up as a longboard surfer in South Florida. He absolutely rips. He’s a bit of a celebrity as far as surfing in South Florida and the East Coast goes, so he always had a pack of groms following him around out in the lineup and a huddle of local surfers on land that was eager to hang out with him. I really admire how he would navigate all of that so gracefully and light-heartedly. He lives Aloha. Him and maybe Kai Lenny. He’s hard to miss. What he’s doing in the ocean is incredible. When I saw him do that floater thing into an airdrop on a 50-foot wave at Jaws, it awakened to me what’s possible in big wave surfing.

How are you using your success to bring goodness to the world? Can you share with us the meaningful or exciting causes you’re working on right now?

I’m using my success to bring goodness to the world by staying grounded in gratitude. I have been given so much that I want to give it back. The best thing I’ve done to date is Waves of Life. We’re taking these lessons in gratitude, meditation, and breathwork and holding surf therapy sessions for at-risk youth. We’re sharing the good things we’ve learned and talking about the bad to provoke their inner strength and acceptance that everything is possible no matter how difficult things may seem. It’s a great place for them to open up and talk. The surfing portion is more of a tool and reflection of their growth. Very similar to my experiences. So it feels good to share them. It has expanded to more than just surfing as well. We include other immersive nature experiences focused on building our connections with the Earth and ourselves.

Can you share with us a story behind why you chose to take up this particular cause?

The story is about my life and the connection between surfing and inner peace. I first recognized that when I worked with Surfers Healing in 2014, bringing disabled youth surfing, where I witnessed the healing power of the ocean and riding waves. Then when Garrett and I went to South Africa in 2019 to visit the Waves For Change headquarters and saw the opportunity to align with their mission, we decided to join the Wave Alliance and create the Waves of Life program with the integrated touch of our personal life philosophies.

Can you share with us a story about a person who was impacted by your cause?

We get great feedback from the kids and the community. How much things have changed for the better? It’s a trickle-down effect. When one person is doing better, they tend to lift others up. I hope all of them will forever look back on their experiences and smile, remembering the things they learned and pay it forward.

Are there three things or are there things that individuals, society, or the government can do to support you in this effort?

Individually anyone can donate to the Waves of Life through the McNamara Foundation, which would provide the means for us to reach more kids. Otherwise, I would invite everybody to simply ask themselves how they could support the cause that is important to them and then pay attention to life providing opportunities for just that. What you felt like as a child is a good step, then ask yourself what it is you would have loved in terms of support, community, and guidance. It might take you out of your comfort zone because you would likely be face to face with things that have impacted you, but I guarantee you will walk away from it for the better.

What are your “5 things I wish someone told me when I first started.”

1. Be impeccable with your word

2. Don’t take anything personally

3. Don’t make assumptions

4. Always do your best

5. Love everyone and tell the truth

You’re a person of enormous influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger.

Maybe a mass global breathing session to see if we can spike the Schumann resonance or something unknown. I’ve been a part of several mass breathing sessions, and it was awesome. Deepak Chopra did one years ago that I remember, and I happened to be at a house party. I forced everyone to sit down and be quiet at the predetermined hour. It was hilarious, and let’s just say the party got real weird after.

Can you please give us your favorite life lesson quote? And can you explain how that was relevant in your life?

Anicha. It means that all phenomena are arising, only to fall away again. It’s impermanence. I learned it in a Vipassana meditation retreat where you don’t speak for ten days. How I got a quote out of that is amazing in itself.

Another one I love is, “If you’re having a hard time, maybe you’re thinking too much about yourself.” It reminds me to not take things personally, and it’s not always about me.

We are blessed that some very prominent names in Business, VC funding, Sports, and Entertainment read this column. Is there a person in the world, or in the US with whom you would love to have a private breakfast or lunch, and why? He or she might just see this if we tag them.

Jim Carrey. If I had to explain, I could, but my gut tells me, Jim Carrey.

Thank you so much for these amazing insights. This was so inspiring, and we wish you continued success!

Thank you. I encourage anyone to reach out to me if they want to talk. I love you, and I believe in you.